PAVERS

PAVER COUNT

pavers = area ÷ paver ft² × waste
ft
ft
RESULT
FILL IN ABOVE
Waste built in by pattern: straight 5%, 45° 15%, herringbone 20%. Order full pallets — most yards sell 100-144 ft² per pallet of standard pavers.
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About this calculator

This paver calculator estimates how many concrete or brick pavers you need for a patio, walkway, or driveway. Enter the project dimensions and the paver size sold at your supplier, choose the laying pattern (straight runs cost about 5% in cuts; 45° diagonal and herringbone climb to 15-20%), and the calculator returns the total piece count rounded up. The math is the project area divided by the area of a single paver, multiplied by the waste factor for the pattern. Brick-format 4×8 in pavers run 4.5 per ft² before waste; 12×12 in slabs run 1 per ft².

How to use this calculator

Measure your patio length and width in feet. For an L-shaped patio or one with a cutout (around an AC unit, tree, etc.), use the L-shape toggle and enter the cutout dimensions. Pick the paver size from the dropdown — the calculator already knows the area per paver for each common format (4×8 brick = 4.5/ft², 6×9 standard = 2.67/ft², 12×12 slab = 1/ft², etc.).

Choose the laying pattern: straight or running bond runs at 5% waste; 45° diagonal hits 15%; herringbone needs 20% because every perimeter piece requires a diagonal cut. The result is the total paver count rounded up. Order full pallets — most yards palletize at 100–144 ft² of standard pavers, so even if you only need 110 pavers, you'll buy a 200-paver pallet.

Worked example

For a 12 × 10 ft patio (120 ft²) using 6×9 standard pavers in a straight running bond:

Paver area: (6 × 9) ÷ 144 = 0.375 ft²/paver. Pavers per ft²: 1 ÷ 0.375 = 2.67. Pavers needed: 120 × 2.67 × 1.05 (5% waste) = 336 pavers.

At $1.50–$3 per 6×9 paver, materials run $500–$1,000. Add 4 inches of crushed stone base (1.5 yd³ = ~$60) and 1 inch of paver sand (0.4 yd³ = ~$30). Total materials around $600–$1,100.

Switching to herringbone: 120 × 2.67 × 1.20 = 384 pavers — 48 more pavers, $72–$144 more in materials, and significantly more cutting and labor. The pattern is worth it on visible patios but adds real cost.

Pro install runs $15–$30/ft² installed for standard patterns ($1,800–$3,600 for this patio); herringbone adds $5–$10/ft². DIY is doable for a small patio in a weekend with two people.

Common mistakes & waste factors

Skipping the base. Pavers laid directly on dirt heave with frost and shift with traffic within a year. 4 inches of crushed stone, compacted in 2-inch lifts, is non-negotiable.

Underordering for diagonal patterns. The 15% waste for 45° and 20% for herringbone are minimums. Add 2–3% if your patio has lots of curves or a circular border.

Forgetting edge restraint. Without a metal or plastic edge restraint around the perimeter, the pavers slowly migrate outward and the pattern fails. $30–$50 of edge restraint saves $1,000+ in repaving labor.

Using regular sand for joints. Polymeric sand (the kind that hardens with water) is the standard for paver joints. Regular sand washes out within a year and the joints fill with weeds.

Rules of thumb

Paver math (per ft²): 4×8 = 4.5 · 6×6 = 4 · 6×9 = 2.67 · 8×8 = 2.25 · 12×12 = 1 · 12×24 = 0.5.

Waste: 5% straight, 15% diagonal, 20% herringbone. Add 3% for circular or curved edges.

Base: 4 inches of compacted ¾-inch crushed stone, then 1 inch of paver sand for screeding.

Edge restraint: required around the perimeter or pavers walk outward over time.

Polymeric joint sand (not regular sand) for finished joints — locks pavers in place and resists weeds.

Common questions

Tool and material links below are affiliate links — we may earn a small commission if you buy, at no extra cost to you.

How many extra pavers should I order beyond the calculator total?
The waste percentage is already baked into the count by pattern (5% straight, 15% diagonal, 20% herringbone) — order what the calculator returns rounded up to the nearest full pallet. Then keep a half-pallet aside in dry storage for repairs; matching the dye lot two years from now is nearly impossible, and a single sunken paver in the middle of a patio looks worse than a whole new pour.
Do I really need to set pavers in a herringbone pattern for a driveway?
Yes for any driveway carrying vehicle weight. The 90° interlock of herringbone resists the rotation forces of tires turning and braking — straight-laid pavers slowly rack out of square under the same loads, and you end up with widening joints and edge creep within five years. Patios and walkways can use any pattern because foot traffic doesn't generate the same shear. A rubber paver mallet is the right tool for tapping pavers into the bed without chipping edges.
How do I cut pavers cleanly?
Two options. (1) Paver splitter — a guillotine-style hand tool that scores and snaps, fast and dust-free for full splits. (2) Diamond blade angle grinder for any angled or curved cut. Wear eye protection and an N95 — silica dust from cutting concrete pavers is a serious lung hazard. Wet-cutting with a hose feed cuts dust dramatically.