GENERATOR SIZE
About this calculator
This generator size calculator adds up running wattage for the loads you want to back up, applies a startup surge to the largest motor (refrigerator, well pump, AC compressor — typically 2.5× running), and recommends a portable or standby generator size. Inductive loads — anything with a motor — are the trap that undersized generators fall into: nameplate running watts is fine, but the locked-rotor inrush at startup is 2-4× higher and stalls the genset. The calculator picks a generator with at least 20% headroom on running watts and headroom for the surge. Use the "essentials" preset for a portable, or "whole home" for a standby. ESTIMATE ONLY — interlock kits, transfer switches, and fuel sizing must be verified by a licensed electrician.
How to use this calculator
Enter the running watts for each load you want backed up. Use 0 for anything you're not powering on backup. The defaults reflect a typical "essentials" backup: fridge, furnace blower, lights, microwave. Add a well pump if you have one (the well pump is usually the biggest single load).
The calculator adds running watts for everything, then adds a startup surge to the largest motor (typically 2.5× for fridges/AC, 3× for well pumps and sumps). Result is the recommended generator size with 20% headroom — portable up to 12 kW, standby (whole-home) above. Standby generators require a transfer switch or interlock kit per NEC 702.
Worked example
For an essentials backup: fridge 700W, furnace blower 600W, microwave 1500W, lights/outlets 600W, well pump 1500W (¾ HP):
Running total: 4,900 W. Largest motor surge: well pump at 3× = 1,500 × 2 = 3,000 W extra. Peak demand: 4,900 + 3,000 = 7,900 W. With 20% headroom: 9,480 W.
Recommended generator: 9,000 W (closest standard size) → portable class.
For whole-home backup adding central AC at 3,500 W and electric water heater at 4,500 W:
Running total: 12,900 W. Largest motor surge: AC at 2.5× = 3,500 × 1.5 = 5,250 W extra. Peak: 18,150 W. With 20% headroom: 21,780 W.
Recommended: 22,000 W → standby (whole-home) class. Requires permanent install with transfer switch and a natural gas or propane fuel line.
Common mistakes & waste factors
Forgetting motor surge. A 700W fridge has a 1,800W startup inrush. Sizing for 700W means the genset trips when the compressor kicks on. The 2.5× surge factor handles this.
Ignoring the well pump. ¾ HP well pumps are the highest surge of common home loads (3× running watts). Adding a well pump to backup often jumps the recommended generator one or two sizes.
Buying portable for whole-home backup. Above ~12 kW, portable units become impractical (heavy, loud, single-fuel). Standby generators (Generac, Kohler, Cummins) start at 14 kW and run on natural gas/propane.
Forgetting the transfer switch / interlock. Connecting a portable generator to your panel without a transfer switch or interlock kit (NEC 702) backfeeds the utility line — kills line workers. Required by code; budget $300-$1,500 for the install.
Rules of thumb
Running watts + largest motor surge + 20% headroom = required generator capacity.
Motor surge: 2.5× for fridges/freezers/AC compressors, 3× for well/sump pumps, 2× for furnace blowers.
Portable class: up to 12 kW. Above that, standby is the practical option.
Well pumps: ½ HP ≈ 1,000 W running, ¾ HP ≈ 1,500 W, 1 HP ≈ 2,000 W. Add 3× surge.
Whole-home backup typically needs 18-26 kW depending on load mix.
Standby install requires NEC 702 transfer switch or interlock kit — $300-$1,500 plus electrician labor.
Common questions
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